Blog 9: Foundations in a Grand Hotel

We stay a little longer in the Dutch hotel where I first became head chef. We discuss the year 2002.

It was a team of ambitious hospitality professionals in a traditional setup. A hotel manager, a technical director, a sales manager, an HR officer, a maître d’, and me—the chef. All of this in a time when the internet was still in its infancy, and having a website was a luxury, not a given.

Change was needed. The owner was ready to invest heavily in the aging property, and plans were drawn up to transform the outdated rooms and the restaurant into a luxurious, modern experience.

The same went for the kitchen. My predecessor had moved on to work at a theme park and had been used to relying entirely on ready-made components. That changed the moment I stepped in. We built a new team from the ground up, crafted an ambitious menu, and set to work.

Each week I calculated gross profit margins, kept a sharp eye on stock, and implemented all HACCP protocols—regulations that had only recently become a legal standard. This was where I learned to truly manage a kitchen, and eventually, a full restaurant operation. It became the foundation of everything I’ve built since.

There was a classic flair to the place that suited me well. And in many ways, here in Greece, I find myself slowly returning to that same timeless style.

Weekends were magical. Everyone pitched in—sometimes even interns from the admin office would lend a hand in the dish pit or the dining room. Those are the moments you don’t forget. I remember, for instance, being in the kitchen on the 6th of May when the tragic news broke: Pim Fortuyn had been assassinated. Everything stopped. The entire team stood in silence, in shock.

The weekends also meant high teas. We’d bake cookies, muffins, and pastries from scratch, prepare elegant finger sandwiches, bonbons, and of course, an abundance of tea. Marketing was old school—ads in the local paper. Easter brunches, Christmas dinners, wine tastings, cooking classes… everything sold out, every time.

Eventually, I left to start my own venture, but the elegance of that place has never left me. Even now, when I see beautifully styled high teas or curated events, I’m reminded of those early years. That same hotel, still known as Landgoed de Uitkijk, still carries the same charm. Its exclusive à la carte offering was even awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand. The renovation, the atmosphere, the detail—it all fits.

A fitting recipe for this nostalgic flashback?

🥄 Warm Savoury Tartlet with Wild Mushrooms, Thyme & Aged Gruyère

An elegant bite, full of nostalgic French-Dutch flair. Perfect as a refined amuse or part of a savoury high tea course. And yes, we made it a dozen times for the tea’s

🔪 For 10 tartlets (appetizer size)

Ingredients:

• Puff pastry or pâte brisée – 250 g (rolled thin, blind-baked)
• Wild mushrooms (chanterelles, shiitake, oyster) – 300 g
• Shallots – 2, finely chopped
• Garlic – 1 clove, minced
• Fresh thyme – 4 sprigs
• Crème fraîche – 100 g
• Egg yolks – 2
• Aged Gruyère – 80 g, grated
• Butter – 30 g
• Salt & pepper – to taste
• Optional: truffle oil and chopped chervil for garnish

👨‍🍳 Technique:

1. Prepare tartlet bases: Line small tartlet moulds with the pastry. Blind bake at 180°C for 12 minutes until golden.
2. Sauté mushrooms: In butter, sweat the shallots and garlic, then add the mushrooms and thyme. Cook until caramelised. Season to taste.
3. Make the custard: Combine crème fraîche with yolks and a pinch of salt.
4. Assemble: Spoon the mushroom mix into the tartlets. Top with Gruyère. Pour a little custard over each.
5. Bake: Return to the oven (160°C) for 8–10 minutes until set and lightly golden.
6. Finish: Add a drop of truffle oil and chervil for a refined touch.

🍷 Wine pairing:

A classic white Burgundy.