Sustainable and Clean Cooking
Lessons from a Top Restaurant to the Family Business
Working in a top restaurant, I quickly noticed that only the best parts of the ingredients were used. Beautiful cuts of meat, the most delicate herbs, the perfect fillets of fish—everything had to be flawless. But what happened to the rest? It was discarded. At least, that’s how I saw it. Of course I did’t see all and everything good and not all left overs were thrown away, but yes, sustainable and clean cooking was something I still needed to learn
I remember one evening cooking at my parents’ house for a family dinner. I was preparing a salad and, out of habit, used only the tender top leaves, throwing the rest in the bin. My mother nearly lost her mind. “What are you doing?!” she exclaimed.
At that moment, I looked around. The kitchen was filled with everything I needed, yet I was wasting perfectly good food. That was the first time I truly realized the importance of working clean—not just in terms of hygiene, but also in terms of efficiency and sustainability.
Sustainability: A Way of Life
Today, sustainability is a hot topic. Chefs around the world are making conscious choices to reduce waste and use ingredients responsibly. For me, it started with something as simple as bringing large cooler bags to the grocery store, avoiding unnecessary plastic packaging. My vegetable bags are biodegradable, and more and more, I grow my own herbs and vegetables.
The shift towards sustainable cooking isn’t just a trend; it’s a mindset. It’s about respecting your ingredients, the farmers who grow them, and the planet that provides them.
Back to My Parents’ Kitchen
One of the first real dishes I made at home was pork tenderloin stuffed with apple, walnuts, and cinnamon, served with a Calvados jus. In the 80s and 90s, pork tenderloin was a staple on nearly every bistro menu, often paired with a classic mushroom sauce. But for me, this dish was more than just another meal—it was a test.
Cooking this for my family felt like an exam. If I could master this dish, I was ready to take on a bigger challenge: cooking for the large groups my parents’ restaurant served—gourmet dinners, fondue nights, and group menus ranging from 30 to 250 guests.
Leaving the Michelin Scene for Family
As my first year at the Michelin-starred restaurant came to an end, I faced a tough decision. I had the opportunity to continue in the fine dining world, jumping from one top-tier kitchen to another, learning from the best. But deep down, I knew where I wanted to be: the family business.
Leaving the high-end culinary scene wasn’t easy. I had spent my last few weeks training the new sous chef while also adjusting to my new role as a father. My colleagues gave me the traditional send-off—literally throwing me into the water, a rite of passage that made it official: I had truly been part of that kitchen.
But my path was clear. I wanted to apply everything I had learned to my family’s restaurant.
Quality, No Matter the Setting
At the family restaurant, my focus shifted—not on lowering quality, but on approaching food differently. Using the whole salad, making sure no vegetables went to waste, and working efficiently without sacrificing taste. Fine dining and large-scale dining may have different approaches, but the key principles remain the same: precision, cleanliness, and respect for ingredients.
How many pork tenderloins do you think I prepared during my years in the family business? Too many to count.
But you should try one!
Pork Tenderloin Stuffed with Apple, Walnuts & Cinnamon
Served with a Rich Calvados Jus
This dish balances the sweetness of apple and cinnamon with the nuttiness of walnuts and the deep, caramelized notes of a Calvados-infused jus.
Ingredients (Serves 4)
For the Stuffed Pork Tenderloin
- 2 pork tenderloins (around 400g each)
- 1 large apple (Granny Smith or Braeburn), finely diced
- 60g walnuts, roughly chopped
- 1 tsp cinnamon
- 1 tbsp butter
- 1 tbsp honey
- 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves
- Salt & freshly ground black pepper
- 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
- 6 slices of prosciutto (or smoked bacon)
- Butcher’s twine
For the Calvados Jus
- 2 shallots, finely chopped
- 1 tbsp butter
- 100ml Calvados (apple brandy)
- 250ml beef or veal stock
- 100ml apple cider
- 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
- 1 tbsp honey
- 50g cold butter, cubed
- Salt & pepper to taste
Instructions
1. Prepare the Filling
- In a pan over medium heat, melt the butter and sauté the apples until they soften slightly (about 2 minutes).
- Add walnuts, cinnamon, honey, and thyme. Stir well and cook for another minute. Season with a pinch of salt.
- Remove from heat and let it cool.
2. Stuff & Roll the Tenderloin
- Butterfly the pork tenderloins by slicing them lengthwise, making sure not to cut all the way through. Open them like a book and flatten slightly with a meat mallet.
- Spread a thin layer of Dijon mustard inside the tenderloin.
- Evenly distribute the apple-walnut mixture over the pork.
- Roll the tenderloin tightly and wrap with prosciutto slices. Tie with butcher’s twine at 2-3 cm intervals.
3. Sear & Roast
- Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F).
- Heat a pan over medium-high heat with a little oil. Sear the stuffed tenderloins on all sides until golden brown (about 2 minutes per side).
- Transfer to a baking dish and roast in the oven for 15-18 minutes, or until the internal temperature reaches 63°C (145°F).
- Let the meat rest for 5 minutes before slicing.
4. Prepare the Calvados Jus
- In the same pan used for searing, melt butter and sauté the shallots until soft.
- Deglaze with Calvados and flambé (optional). Let the alcohol burn off for about 1 minute.
- Add the apple cider, veal stock, mustard, and honey. Reduce by half until slightly thickened.
- Remove from heat and whisk in cold butter to create a glossy sauce. Season with salt and pepper.
Serving Suggestion
- Slice the stuffed pork tenderloin into medallions.
- Spoon the rich Calvados jus over the top.
- Serve with mashed potatoes, roasted Brussels sprouts, or a buttery parsnip purée.
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